The Great Arctic Air Adventure Blog

For the crew of Lisa, Eric and Mark that was camping out, an early start brought a spectacular sunrise. After a quick breakfast of oatmeal mixed with granola and powdered milk, the tips tanks were topped off from jerry cans and 2SF broke water a bit after 9 AM Atlantic Time (we keep losing hours) from a pristine Labradoran lake. The short flight to Goose Bay was spent discussing great canoeing rivers in the west, with many good recommendations shared. The placid waters of Otter Creek were a welcome sight.

Freeman Poole, base manager for Air Labrador was on the dock to greet us along with one of the fine dock hands, Bush. Also on the dock was CBC Radio Goose Bay Bureau reporter Kate, with her microphone, recording the idling sound of the Beaver as it pulled up to the dock. Once Doug and the crew returned to the base, we had a pleasant chat with Kate, discussing our adventure for the benefit of listeners all across Labrador. I’m sure there is a way to access Kate’s feature on the trip, which we understand will air in the next couple of days, by logging onto the CBC website.

We had a nice chat with Warwick Pike, who, along with his brother Roger, are the proprietors of Air Labrador. Besides thanking Warwick for his hospitality at the base, we listened some of his stories about bush flying in Labrador during the last 40 years. It is interesting to note that while Air Labrador no longer operates Beavers, the company has a rich tradition spanning several decades of operating De Havilland aircraft. The current fleet is almost exclusively De Havillands (they operate ONE Caravan) including Dash 8’s and Twin Otters on wheels, skis and floats.

Freeman, Eric and Mark held a ceremony for Doug’s benefit. While we have been previously a bit disappointed at not attaining our goal of reaching the Magnetic North Pole, Freeman pointed out that the lake that 2SF camped at last night was named “North Pole Lake”. Well that was good enough for us, so we surprised Doug with a Santa hat, meant to be presented at the MNP.

Fueling went very quickly with the aid of dock hand Shane, and a fuel hose, an odd new contraption with which we have been unfamiliar for the past few weeks. Strangely and conveniently, it allows one to refuel an aircraft with out using a fuel drum, hand pump, jerry can, or pick-up truck. It is as if the fuel appears magically. We were all delighted at this new invention.

Subway sandwiches were purchased by the airport shuttle team of Dave and Norma, Robbie was met at baggage claim, and we all enjoyed a reunion and lunch on the dock as the temperature climbed to 85d. Hugs were exchanged as we said goodbye to David and Lisa. David has been such a key member of the team, who along with his wife, Carol, has kept our website fires burning. Lisa brought fun, hard work, and great weather to the team during her brief four days with us. She also brought Mark some needed family time. Thank you to David and Lisa. Until the next adventure, happy travels to you both.

Thank you also to Warwick, Freeman, Bush and Shane for their hospitality at Otter Creek.

Our departure in blustery winds brought new views. First of all, the addition of Robbie and Norma has once again energized our team with new team chemistry. Secondly, our 320 nautical mile sightseeing tour out to the Atlantic Ocean, down the coast and into Belle Strait at the mouth of the St Lawrence Seaway, revealed the amazing quilt works of rocky islands, shores and fishing villages that is the Labrador Coast. We had not seen such scenery prior to today. Seeing the Atlantic, and finally making the turn westbound on the one month anniversary of our departure from Lake Washington, caused us to reflect on the past four weeks and all that we have experienced. For fun, Doug brought up PAE on the GPS (the identifier for Paine Field in Everett, a few miles north of our hometown of Kenmore) and found that we have 2553 nautical miles to go, and two and a half weeks in which to do it. We have gone as far as we can go in this great land of Canada. Turning towards the setting sun and donning sunglasses, our little band of adventurers is finally heading home.

With fond thoughts to all our missed friends and family,

From our beach front campsite at N51d.38 W56d.52,

The GAAA Team

There are signs:

It could be that we haven’t been fighting a headwind for the last couple of days…

Perhaps it’s because we haven’t had an Arctic Char feast for a few days…

Come to think of it we didn’t set up our Polar Bear defenses last night…

Or it could be that last night we landed in relatively flat water and pulled the planes up on a nice sandy beach free of rocks and pounding wind waves…

The bears are black instead of white…

Maybe it’s because we pulled up to an actual seaplane dock in Kuujjuaq this morning, and refueled with Avgas instead of auto gas…

It could be all of these things, but I think the campfire we had last night, enabling us to warm our feet was the final sign.

Yes we have departed the Arctic – and are saddened for our loss. After whining about the rigors of the north for the last few weeks, and fearing that we might get stuck up there for the winter, it is an unexpected emotion, but I think we are all experiencing it.

We all miss the Arctic our own way, but for me I think our travels have suddenly become too easy. There is something about fighting for each mile against the elements of wind, rain, and cold that gives you a certain satisfaction at the end of the day. Perhaps it’s the vastness of the place, the thousands of miles of tundra inhabited by some of the toughest animals and humans on the planet that changes your focus. For the last few weeks, we’ve had no news of or interest in the politics, financial markets, or other functions of western society that normally dominate our day-to-day lives. We’ve just being concerned with eking out another mile, getting fuel, and experiencing this exotic place.

Yesterday, after crossing into the Boreal Forests, finding a campsite with available firewood became a priority. And so after a brief search for a suitable site, alert GAAA’er Dave Good spotted wood lying on a beach, immediately clinching the place as our campsite.

After three weeks in a land with no trees, the return of the evening’s fire and the warm and cheery atmosphere it provided was welcomed by the weary GAAA team.

And so after listening to the soothing patter of a warm and friendly rain on our tent flaps last night, we broke camp and made the short hop to Kuujjuaq where we glided to rest at a seaplane-friendly dock, and pumped real Avgas from drums into our thirsty Beavers. While there, we spent some time with legendary bush pilots Johnny and Billy May. Johnny, who has logged an incredible 20,000 hours of flying in these parts, was one of the first native pilots in the north. For these guys, the rigors we experienced over the last few weeks are just another day at the office. Out hats our off to Johnny and Billy, who endure bad weather and engine failures with no complaint.

Departing Kuujjuaq, we headed south to “Caribou Central”, an area about one hundred miles south rumored to be swarming with the hoofed herbivores. Alas, our efforts yielded little, as we only saw three of the elusive reindeer. However, ever vigilant GAAA’er Dave spotted two black bears, another sign that we were returning to a familiar land.

Mark and crew opted to land at a lake about 60 miles NW of Goose Bay (N54 02, W61 36) while Doug and crew pressed on to the Otter Creek Seaplane base at Goose Bay to meet up with incoming GAAA’ers Norma Ward and Robbi DeVries (Doug’s spousal unit.) Doug and crew were greeted by Freeman Poole of Air Labrador who provided a well appreciated docking space and loads of support and goodwill to the weary travelers. Thank you, Freeman, for your warm hospitality.

Norma, who by now had made friends with the entire town, took us out for a nice dinner, each of us savoring the fresh food while sipping our “spirit” of choice.

Did anybody hear what the Dow did yesterday…?

Until tomorrow,

Doug and the GAAA Team

N53 21, W60 25